Cusco to Puno to Copacabana

Just arrived to Bolivia.  Copacabana is the city located along the shore of lake Titicaca.  The borders of Peru and Bolivia cut the lake in 1/2, we spent a couple of days in Puno along the shores of the same lake in Peru and now giving Bolivia a shot.

Been about a week since last post in which time we recovered from our trip to Machu Picchu by spending a few more days in Cusco, then headed for Puno for 2 days, and now in Copa for another couple of days.

Puno is about a 5 hour bus ride from Cusco and pretty easy ride.  Smooth road most of the way along the Antiplano or high plains.  Most of the ride is through a beautiful valleys along a river with the Andes rising from both sides of the road.  Pretty spectacular county dotted with small farms (really small), nothing larger than sustainance farming.  As with many parts of Peru these are the countries poor, living in mud brick homes with maybe a cow and a pig for protein, and growing wheat, corn, quinoa, and potatoes.

We arrived after dark in Puno so did not get a chance to see the lake until the next morning.  While the rest of the hotel guests filed into the airconditioned, modern vans for the days tours, the Lannins went about things at their own pace.  The other guests were gone by 7:30.

The hotel breakfast ended at 9:00 a.m. and we barely made it on time.  They had run out of a number of things so we ordered directly from the kitchen.  After breakfast we headed down hill.  We did not know exactly where we were going, but we knew which direction the lake was and started walking.

We usually have to “trick” the kids into walking.  Gina and I will walk miles and miles, but as soon as the kids realize they are going to be walking for any distance start asking to take a cab!  From the hotel the lake looked close, but after 30 minutes of walking we realized that it was a several mile hike.  Luckily it was down hill.

We found the boat dock and were spotted immediately by the touts wanting to sell a tour.  We obliged one fella and listened to what he had to say.  Both Gina and I are getting fairly good as spotting the bullshit, and this guy was laying it on pretty thick.  It is interesting, I can’t speak the language so it affords me the luxury of watching their body language and the tone of their voice and their eyes…they eyes always give it away.  Anyway, he finished…we asked a bunch of questions and then asked for the price, $150 Soles ($45.00 US) for a trip out to see the floating islands.  I asked him what his best price was, he hesitated, and the said $140 Soles.

Gina stood up and walked out.  She is getting really, really, really good at this negotiation stuff!  The kids followed her out and I kinda stayed back listen/talking to this fella for a short period of time.

I caught up with her and the kids a little was down the street.  She said that we were quoted $95.00 Soles at the hotel from another tour operator.  So this guy wanted to stick us for another $55.00 Sole or $18.00.

We headed to the pier and found the local ticket office.  They run boats to the islands all day long as soon as one fills up another takes its place.  We ended up paying $40.00 Soles for the 4 of us plus an entrance fee of $20.00 for a grand total of $60.00 or less than $20.00 US.  To be fair we did not get an airconditioned van…in fact we walked several miles, we did not get an english speaking guide, and our boat was not as pretty as the others…but we saved ourselves $15.00 to $30.00 and had a lot more fun.

I have said before that we are not tour folks.  For many people this is the way to travel…it is just not for us.

Why we like doing it ourselves:

1.  We got to sleep late.  We are finding that teenagers like to sleep.

2.  We ate breakfast in a quiet restaurant, and in fact ordered directly from the kitchen.

3.  We had a nice 2 mile walk through parts of Puno that few (read very few) tourists every travel.  Our walk was through a fairly run down area and we turned quite a few heads.

4.  We enjoy talking to tour touts even if we are not going to purchase anything.  You really never get the correct information from anyone, even those trying to help you, so you basically play detective trying to piece together information to determine which decision to make.

5. We met some interesting people on the boat.  Kindred spirits in that they did not take a tour either by went on their own.

6. We did not have a ton of cash invested up front so we could have changed our plans at any time.  This is very helpful with kids, but also helpful just trying to make 4 people happy.

7.  After the boat ride we took a bicycle cab ride to the bus station to purchase our bus tickets for the next day.  Riding with your 8 year old daughter in a bicyle taxi along the shores of Titicaca as she giggles uncontrollably was priceless, and something NO tour company can provide.

Well, we made it to Bolivia.  We are only planning on spending less than 2 weeks in country before reaching the border of Argentina.  Grant wants to celebrate his 13th birthday on May 3rd in Argentina and I think we can accomodate him!  We will get pictures put together for next post.